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Lakeside:
Pokhara’s tourist district, or Lakeside
as it is popularly known, spreads along almost
half of the eastern shore of Phewa Lake. Hugging
the lake’s shoreline, there is a long chain
of business enterprises all ready to cater to
the needs of visiting tourists: many hotels, many
restaurants, many book shops, many souvenir shops,
many provision shops, and many, many, many travel
and trekking agents. Here accommodation ranges
from budget lodges to luxury hotels.
Pokhara’s
Lakeside was popularized in the early seventies
by hippies who used to hang around the lake by
the drove, and even today the area retains vestiges
of that generation’s eccentricities. Loud
music, outlandish signs, and peculiar names for
hotels and restaurants like “The Hungry
Eye,” “Moondance” and “Billy
Bunter”, are some examples that defy transition.
History
:
Centuries ago, Pokhara Valley
used to be part of the kingdom of Kaski. The king
ruled from a hilltop fortress known as Kaskikot,
which lies to the north of Pokhara. During the
15th century, the then king built a winter palace
at Batule Chaur, which now forms a northern suburb
of Pokhara. (Around the site of the palace ruins
is now a colony of musicians. A visit to these
descendants of the court minstrels of a bygone
era is worth it if nothing but to get a feel of
the rich musical heritage of the Pokhara region.)
Till a few decades
ago, before the trans-Himalayan trade died down,
Pokhara was a major depot in the trade between
Tibet and central Nepal. Vestiges of this thriving
trade that was mainly done through mule caravans
can be found in the numerous caravanserais that
are still present in settlements all along the
Kali Gandaki Valley.
The Mountains
of Pokhara
The Annapurna range as seen
from Pokhara is probably the best-known scene
from Nepal. Yet, even the most thorough familiarity
with the view does not prepare one for the experience
of seeing them in reality, as even regular visitors
to Pokhara can attest. It often happens that clouds
gather up during the afternoon and tourists, who
generally land in Pokhara in the latter part of
the day, see nothing but a blanket white to the
north of Pokhara. This is all the more fortuitous
since appreciation of this beautiful range is
best when after a good night’s rest, one
wakes up to find the entire lineup of these magnificent
massifs spread out against the clear blue, crisp
morning sky.
The Annapurna range is impressive
by any standard. Looming ahead to take center
stage is Machhapuchhare, or “Fishtail”,
which gets its name from the shape of its summit.
Flanking it on either side are the other great
mountains of the range, including Annapurna I
(8091 m), the first 8000-meter peak to be scaled.
The range continues to meet the Lamjung Himal
in the east while to its west looms the massive
dome of Dhaulagiri (8167 m). Altogether an incomparable
sight.
Climate
In spite of its proximity to
the Himalaya, Pokhara is located at a relatively
low altitude of 900 meters (2,950 feet). The climate,
therefore, is mild and comfortable during the
winters, while the cool mountain breeze helps
bring the heat down to a tolerable level in the
summer.
Sightseeing
The highlight of a stay in
Pokhara is simply gazing at the mountains that
lie strung across the northern sky. And what a
sight it is. Starting from Dhaulagiri (8167 meters)
in the extreme left, the view includes Annapurna
South (7129 meters), Annapurna I (8091 meters),
Machhapuchhare (6997 meters), Annapurna IV, Annapurna
III (7444 meters), Annapurna II (7937 meters)
and Lamjung (6983 meters). Nowhere else in the
world can one enjoy such a magnificent panorama
up so close while enjoying the comforts of sub-tropical
surroundings.
To begin with, Pokhara’s
bazaar area, especially the old part, is a fascinating
place. Here, one can imagine the roll of the centuries
as one walks along the stone-paved sidewalks of
this quiet area. All commercial activities have
shifted to other areas – so much the better
since the old market still retains its quaint
character of a town that time has passed by.Davis
Fall is a small but extraordinary waterfall. Its
original Nepali name of Patale Chhango has now
given way to the Anglicized version because a
tourist by the name of Davis plunged to his death
in this particular fall. Although the cascade
is not very puissant and spectacular, the shapes
of the stones and rocks through which the water
drains are really unique and worth seeing.
Mahendra
Cave is a limestone cave with stalagmites and
stalactites. It is interesting from a religious
point of view as well. There are many images of
Hindu gods and goddesses on the walls of the cave
and these are said to have occurred naturally.
Electric lamps illuminate parts of the cave but
it is safer to go in with torches or candles since
power failure is quite common.
Seti Gorge, in places,
runs so deeply underground that it cannot be seen.
“Seti” in Nepali means “white”,
the color of this river’s water that comes
from it’s mixing with limestone. Over time,
the Seti river has carved a deep and narrow gorge
whose fascinating vistas are best seen from Mahendra
Pool and from across the airport runway.Phewa
is not the only lake in Pokhara. The valley has
a total of seven lakes although four of them are
not so large. Among the larger ones are Rupa and
Begnas Lakes, twin bodies of water separated by
a low ridge. These lakes are situated approximately
15 kilometers east of Pokhara and are worth at
least a half-day visit
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